Le type de sertissage influe sur l'aspect esthétique, le design et la forme de votre bijou. D'une part le sertissage définit le style de votre bijou : classique, moderne, plus ou moins travaillé. D'autre part le sertissage détermine la brillance qui sera donné aux pierres serties sur votre bijou diamant. Enfin le sertissage est le garant de la fixation et donc de la longévité de votre bague, solitaire, pendentif, ... diamant.
Voici quelques sertissages parmi le plus utilisés en bijouterie de luxe.
The set claw
The squeegee claw is undoubtedly the best known crimp and used in jewelry.
2 to 8 claws, sometimes, but rarely more, enclose the stone. They are distributed around the perimeter of the equidistant stone. The claws thus form a cradle that holds the stone.
The claws are fixed and its ends are bent on the ring for hold and fix the diamond.
In general we use 4 claws but for aesthetic reasons or to ensure better maintains we sometimes use a larger number of claws. The visible ends of the claws are then worked : rounded, oval, pointed, with corners or flattened. They can even and sometimes adopt decorative forms.
The set claw adapts relatively easily to different forms of diamond. This set surelevates the stone that captures more light and maximizes its brightness. The set claw is suitable for most jewels. It is used mostly on solitaire rings, engagement rings and wedding jewelery..
Double claw set
In the case of claw crimps it is necessary to ensure periodicaly the good condition of the claws, which alone are supporting the stone. If your diamond moves have your jewel checked !
Closed and half closed
The closed set is to surround the stone with a sheet of metal. The stone is deposited in a conical hollow made in the mount. The metal is then folded around the stone using a « marteleuse ».
The net, small border, belt the stone all around. When the metal does not belt the stone as a whole we talk about half seam or semi-closed.
The closed set provides good protection for stones of any size. The crown rising above the mount, the diamonds set closed capture very well the light. The closed setting gives the diamond jewel a uniform appearance, smooth, elegant and modern.
This technique of setting is especially practiced in fine jewelery for calibrated or of squared shape stones (the Princess cut for example). Diamonds or colored precious gemstones are set without visible metal claws. The stones are assembled on an 18k gold or platinum mesh and give the impression that they hold each other. A very high precision of the adjustment is essential. The realization is very complex to give the desired illusion which increases the cost of manufacture of the jewel.
The paved set is used to assemble many diamonds. Like a pavement of stones, this gives an imposing set. The stones are maintained by small metal balls placed between them which separates them from the others.
The set is mainly used on baguette, emerald, oval, princess, round and square diamond shapes. The paved set is often combined with other frames.
The seam said descended, consists in crimping stones of paving on a band of metal of the same width, using tiny claws. It is a relatively fragile crimp, intended for rings worn occasionally, and not engagement or wedding rings, worn on a daily basis for decades.
It is used to hide the dimension of diamonds. The claws make them seem more important: fewer stones are needed to cover the same area.
The brilliance of the jewel is more reduced by this setting. If the jewel is worn every day, the diamonds end up falling; it is then particularly difficult to repair it properly.
Grain crimping is the most used for round paving stones. Diamonds are fixed in a metal band. A metal net is preserved on each side of the stones. For that, the jeweler digs the metal and using a tool, he raises what are called "grains". Those are used to maintain the stones. The nets then appear.
The grain crimp is designed to optimize the brilliance of stones. If as a result of a shock it happens to lose a diamond, it is very easy to replace the missing stone.
The metal is flush with the top of the diamond to include it in the 18-carat gold or platinum top part of the frame.
The advantage is that the precious stone is particularly very well protected and will never move if the crimp is performed by a true professional artisan of great experience.
Gemstones are set side by side on a strip of two long grooves of gold 18k or platinum. This set gives the diamond its best brilliance. It is necessary for this that the diamonds are cut precisely at the pavillon level.The seam rail is generally used for small identical stones It gives a modern design on round stones, baguette, emerald, oval, princess and square cut diamonds . Since the different stones are alike and closely joined (no gap or strip of metal between the stones) the set rail is beautiful with round, princess or rectangle shapes like for wedding rings.
Crimping in tension
The diamond gives the impression of floating between two parts of the body of the 18k gold or platinum frame.
Two crimping techniques are existing :
- setting up an invisible metal support between two pieces of the frame in which a cavity will be hollowed to receive the diamond bolt
- and / or use a laser to dig grooves on the sides of the pieces of the frame for to hold the diamond by the pressure exerted by the body of the ring.